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Malaysian Chinese erect an egg on the ground as a part of the local custom to mark the beginning of the Spring in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, Feb. 4, 2010. The "beginning of the spring", the first of the 24 solar terms in Chinese lunar calendar, falls on Feb. 4 this year, which is observed among the Malaysian Chinese by erecting eggs on the ground. (Xinhua Photo)

A Malaysian Chinese girl prepares to erect an egg on the ground as a part of the local custom to mark the beginning of the Spring in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, Feb. 4, 2010. The "beginning of the spring," the first of the 24 solar terms in Chinese lunar calendar, falls on Feb. 4 this year, which is observed among the Malaysian Chinese by erecting eggs on the ground. (Xinhua Photo)
Malaysian Chinese erect an egg on the ground as a part of the local custom to mark the beginning of the Spring in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, Feb. 4, 2010. The "beginning of the spring", the first of the 24 solar terms in Chinese lunar calendar, falls on Feb. 4 this year, which is observed among the Malaysian Chinese by erecting eggs on the ground.

For residents of Wenzhou, a city in East China's Zhejiang province with the highest number of overseas Chinese, discussions about the hottest holiday trip at the moment is not about a romantic sojourn through Europe or a relaxing stay at a tropical island, but a weekend trip to cities in neighboring Fujian province, like Fuzhou.

Despite their well-known desire to explore the world outside their hometown, few Wenzhou residents have visited Fuzhou, although they may have traveled to Europe, Africa or Australia.

Separated by walls of high mountains, residents of the two cities have long lived like they belong to two different continents, despite their geographical proximity. Travel by air was too costly, by bus too tedious and by train, too long.

As a Fujian native, I remember that it took me nearly 14 hours in 1997 to go from my hometown to Zheijiang by the fastest train. But a newly opened express railway line has shortened the travel time between Fuzhou and Wenzhou to just 90 minutes.

I chanced on this information by sheer luck. I was visiting Wenzhou two weeks ago for an interview. When I mentioned my hometown, people responded excitedly saying, "then you might as well go visit your hometown. It is now just 90 minutes away by train!"

While overjoyed to hear this, I could not shake off a lingering doubt.

My last memory of train travel in China was a tedious, long, crowded and sleepless 27-hour journey in a stuffy compartment from Shanghai to Xiamen, on the fastest train available between the two cities in 1997.

While I had heard much about the continuous upgrading of the country's nationwide railway system, I didn't have the desire or interest to check it out until that day in Wenzhou. Ultimately, the temptation of being able to see my parents was too much to resist.

The journey has completely altered my perception of train travel. My ears throbbed with the changes in air pressure as the train raced through one tunnel after another. But in general, the train was clean and comfortable and the service, good. I set out at about 7 pm and by 8:30 pm, I was with my childhood classmate, waiting at the station at Fuzhou.

Her mother was more eager to hear about my trip. With three children settled in three different cities, namely Fuzhou, Quanzhou and Xiamen, her delight at the possibility of visiting any of them after an hour-long train trip, was palpable.

When I mentioned my past memories of train travel, she brushed me off impatiently. "Don't even mention it, that experience belongs to the last century."

A-Ma Temple

The Historic Center of Macau

In July 2005, "The Historic Centre of Macau" was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List, recognizing the architectural legacies interwoven in the midst of the original urban fabric of Macau, a witness to successful East-West cultural co-existence. A-Ma Temple is reputedly the place in Macau where the Portuguese first landed, and is the starting point of this historical exploration.

Picture yourself outside A-Ma Temple standing on the Portuguese-style cobbled road. The Temple consists of prayer halls, pavilions and courtyards built into the boulder-strewn hill connected by winding paths through moon gates and tiny gardens. At the entrance is a large rock on which a traditional sailing junk was etched over 400 years ago. On other boulders you can see red carved characters invoking the blessings of the gods. Chinese legend says that touching the top of the moon gate up the hill will bring good luck in love.

Opposite the temple lies the Maritime Museum, featuring many aspects of Portuguese and Chinese maritime history covering the period from the Fifteenth to the Seventeenth Century. Several famous Portuguese restaurants are located nearby.

COPENHAGEN - Got 48 hours to spare in the Danish capital of Copenhagen amid the world leaders, scientists, demonstrators and skeptics in town this December to discuss measures for confronting global climate change?

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a short stay in the laid-back yet stylish old Nordic city.

FRIDAY

2 p.m. -- Head for bustling and picturesque 17th century trading harbor Nyhavn with its tall ships and crooked colorful houses. Have a seasonal mulled wine at the Christmas market or in one of many bars and restaurants. The harbor was excavated by King Christian V to give his newly built central square, Kongens Nytorv, a connection to the sea. Fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen once lived at No. 67.

3 p.m. -- From Nyhavn, take a boat tour of Copenhagen's idyllic canals and harbors (www.canaltours.dk). The boat will also stop at the Little Mermaid, the statue of Andersen's fairytale character and a top tourist attraction.

4 p.m. -- Back ashore and time to stretch your legs. Around the corner from Nyhavn, on the waterfront, pass by -- or through! -- modern architectural pearl Skuespilhuset, the Royal Theatre's new stage that was inaugurated last year. Gaze across the water to the futuristic Opera House on Holmen Island before continuing down Toldbodgade to venerable Amalienborg, the Queen's winter residence. If the flag is hoisted, she's in! If it's the weekend, you can climb into the magnificent dome of Frederik's Church for a view of the city skyline.

Pass by the headquarters of shipping group A.P. Moller-Maersk, Denmark's biggest company, and Kastellet, one of the best preserved fortifications in Europe before heading back toward the center along Bredgade -- one of Copenhagen's main arteries with its art galleries and exclusive antique and clothes' boutiques. From there, zig-zag the streets around Kronprinsensgade, another artery lined with designer shops and cafes.

7 p.m. -- The meatpacking district promises a change of scenery for the evening. Listed for conservation and a stone's throw from the central station, the 1930s modernistic "Kodbyen" has recently become the in-crowd's preferred playground as galleries, restaurants and nightclubs found their way there. Have dinner at red-hot newcomer Pate Pate (Slagterboderne 1), a boisterous and friendly place for good wines, tapas and southern European inspired food -- or at the big and lively Fiskebaren (Flaesketorvet 100), the meat district's fish restaurant.

11 p.m. -- Join the party crowd at funky Jolene Bar (Flaesketorvet) for a few beers to the sound of some loud tunes, or head for hip Karriere Bar (Flaesketorvet 56) a few steps away for drinks and a slightly bigger dancefloor.

SATURDAY

10 a.m. -- Have brunch at one of Copenhagen's innumerable cozy cafes and bars, for example laid-back Bang & Jensen (Istedgade 130) in the Vesterbro district, or if you prefer something with a distinguished heritage, Cafe Norden (Ostergade 61) in the City Center.

11 a.m. -- Stroll through the lovely garden Kongens Have to Rosenborg Castle (Oster Voldgade 4A), a 17th century red brick beauty which shelters the royal jewels.

12 noon. -- At City Hall Square, admire the giant Christmas tree -- environment-friendly this year as it is lit by pedal power. Jump on one of the bikes and help out!

1 p.m. -- Visit Tivoli, the famed 19th century amusement park (Vesterbrogade 3) whose Christmas-decorated gardens have a near-magical vibe for the old as well as the young. Enjoy the Christmas market and, if you have children in tow, the rides. Stop by classic establishment Nimb's new cocktail bar.

4 p.m. -- Head slowly but surely toward the Christianshavn island district passing grand buildings on your way: Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is a sculpture museum built on beer profits. Christiansborg houses the Parliament. Don't miss the old stock exchange Borsen, and the modern Black Diamond library.

Stroll through idyllic Christianshavn with its canals, narrow cobblestone streets, old warehouses and Dutch style merchant houses. The area is also home to the self-proclaimed hippie free town Christiania.

6 p.m. -- Have an early dinner at Noma (Strandgade 93), Denmark's only restaurant boasting two Michelin stars, which serves inventive Nordic dishes in an elegant rustic atmosphere with a spectacular warehouse harbour view.

8 p.m. -- A stone's throw down the quais, enjoy acclaimed Bizet's Carmen at Copenhagen's ultra-modern opera house Operaen (Ekvipagemestervej 10), where the curtain first went up in January 2005.

11 p.m. -- Head back to the city center and finish off the evening with more music: Get a taste of the fading era of Copenhagen as a 1970s jazz mecca at La Fontaine (Kompagnistraede 11), a smoky dive featuring live jazz bands that jam until the wee hours.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. -- Get your morning coffee from the Coffee Collective (Jaegersborggade 10) in the multi-cultural Norrebro district. With one barista world champion on the team, and ambitious fair trade strategies, it is likely to taste and feel good.

10 a.m. -- Visit the old brewery site of Denmark's No.1 beer producer Carlsberg. Have a peek at the museum, check out the Christmas beers -- and gaze upon the famous elephant statues framing the portal (Gamle Carlsberg Vej).

On that note, a number of excellent microbreweries have surfaced in Denmark in recent years and also merit a visit.

12 noon. -- Settle down for a traditional Danish smorrebrod lunch at Cafe Toldboden (Amaliegade 41). Smorrebrod, a daily lunch staple for many Danes, are open rye-bread sandwiches with elaborate toppings.

2 p.m. -- If you are up for Christmas shopping, spend your last hours and crowns in town foraging for goodies in Denmark's classic upmarket department store Illum (Ostergade 52), its interior design branch Illum Bolighus, or Magasin du Nord (Kongens Nytorv 12).

If shopping is not your bag, then visit modern art museum Louisiana a train ride north of Copenhagen (Humlebaek) which, besides its collection and exhibitions, has a lovely garden and cafe with a panoramic view over Oresund, the strait between Denmark and Sweden.

Duncan Peattie from Kingston upon Thames, England, reads and speaks little Chinese. But since 2001, he has been doing a Chinese-English translation - at least once a year - of a little book that has benefited hundreds, if not thousands, of travelers from across the world.

Armed with little more than the names of cities in language skills, he has been producing regularly updated English translations of the Chinese railway timetables.

A railway signal testing engineer since 16, Peattie was based in Hong Kong, from 1997 to 2000, but now splits his time between Thailand, Australia and his home country, the United Kingdom. He claims to knows every rail line in China and every new improvement and addition to one of the world's most dynamic rail systems.

Based on the Chinese timetables put out by China Rail Publishing House (CRPH), Peattie's English version isn't merely a translation, but a recompilation that is more user-friendly especially for a foreigner who doesn't read or speak Chinese.

Peattie calls it "a labor of love", one that he is quick to share with whoever is interested.

His timetables comes in two formats - a downloadable PDF file version, which is a free, "quick reference" summary of express trains between main stations, the only trains most foreign tourists will ever take, and a complete, national timetable for sale if you are getting off the main lines as part of a more complex travel plan.

The schedules are linked to the Quail China Railway Atlas, which is also available in print, and can be invaluable in finding connections along various routes. The timetable's sixth edition (based on the April 2009 Chinese timetable and including major changes over the past year) is out, and now routinely referenced by various guidebooks and websites.

But some still wonder why anyone would go to the great lengths that Peattie does to produce a timetable.

"Some have called it an obsession, but surely it's a harmless one," says Peattie, by phone from Australia.

He adds that his fascination with trains goes back to when he was 3.

"You know, mothers usually take their children to see art or enjoy music or experiment with science, to help discover their interest and potential as early as possible," says Peattie. "This is what my mother did after running out of options - she took me to the train station near our house."

The year was 1959. Both mother and son would stand mesmerized as the steam trains puffed in and out of the station amid the glittering signals.

As an assistant to his electrician father since his early childhood, Peattie also developed a strong interest in electricity. That led naturally to his becoming a rail signaling test engineer. He worked for British Rail for nearly 20 years before moving overseas for work, mostly in Thailand, Australia and Hong Kong.

One thing he loves about working for the railways, Peattie says, is that he used to get three train tickets for free each year when he was back in UK.

"I used every single ticket I got because I love traveling, especially by train," he says. "Traveling by train means you don't have to worry about driving and traffic as you do when you travel by car, and can enjoy the beautiful scenery outside. Riding a train in a foreign country is often quite a journey in itself. It's also much safer and reliable when compared to travel by air or car."

When he landed in Hong Kong in 1997, he got on the through train between Hong Kong and Shanghai as soon as it was introduced, embarking on the first of many explorations of the country by train.

"I was very excited to see a food trolley pulled along the platform selling drinks and snacks. I'd never seen services like this before," recalls Peattie.

He still remembers the delicious eggs boiled with tea and soy sauce he bought then. "What a good choice of snack for a train traveler!"

When he arrived in Shanghai, he wanted to continue his explorations and started to look for timetable information. There was a lot, but all in Chinese. "I decided to make my own timetable even though it took a long time. My Chinese language skills were zero, and are still not good, but I have developed the ability to read place names."

The first complete edition was ready in April 2001. "Having completed it I realized that it was a bit silly to keep it to myself, so I turned it into something fit for publication," he says.

Peattie says he usually sells a few hundred copies for each complete edition of 176 pages, which is currently priced at $20. But, he adds, profit has never been the purpose of his project. "I share the view of CRPH that there isn't a commercial market for a detailed English language Chinese railway timetable. However, there is a significant demand for such information."

While rail services in China have improved significantly in the past decade, "not many people know much about these. I believe if they knew, they would like to travel by train", says Peattie.

Peattie says he is looking forward to his next China trip next year. "Since my last trip to China in 2007, many new lines have been added.

Crime, air pollution and heavy traffic are stereotypical impressions of Mexico City, the largest metropolis in Latin America, for those who have not visited.

However, after my recent trip to the city, with a group of Chinese journalists, invited by the Mexico Tourism Board, I have a different image.

During our stay, none of us were the victims of crime and we didn't even encounter a quarrel on the streets.

We didn't see Mexico City's sprawling slums until we headed out of the city toward the pyramids of Teotihuacan, two days after arriving.

As to air pollution, well, we didn't feel it. In fact, I quite enjoyed the city's weather. It was cool in the morning and night and could be hot at noon. Although it was often cloudy, it was never hazy, like Beijing recently.

While the city has a population of 25 million it doesn't appear to be densely populated (from a Chinese point of view) as most of the buildings are low-rise. Also, it was not too crowded at the few tourist attractions we saw in the heart of Mexico City - the Plaza de la Constitucin, or Zocalo, as it is more commonly known.

We had a pleasant stroll around the plaza on a Sunday morning. It is like a market surrounded by Spanish colonial buildings, including the Metropolitan Cathedral and National Palace.

Conchero dancers remind many Mexicans of their ancestors, the Aztecs, with daily get-togethers in the plaza's northeastern corner. Here, they performed ceremonial dances to the rhythm of booming drums, dressed in feathered headdresses and conch shell anklets and bracelets.

Peddlers sold goods ranging from hammocks and wooden scarves, to home-made pearl cream and tiocoyo tortillas, made of green corn and served with tomato and green pepper sauce and cheese.

The National Palace is home not only to the offices of the president of Mexico and the Federal Treasury, but also dramatic murals by Diego Rivera (1886-1957), the world-famous Mexican painter and husband of Frida Kahlo, an influential painter known for her self-portraits.

The colorful murals on the main stairwell and the walls of the second floor of the palace around the central courtyard present the artist's view of Mexican civilization between 1521 and the 1910 revolution. They were painted between 1929 and 1935.

The splendid work is a feast of colors with vivid figures depicting The Epic of the Mexican People. From it, visitors can get an idea of the size and layout of Tenochtitlan, the Aztec empire's capital, which was in the downtown area near the Zocalco. In the mural you can see scenes such as Aztecs selling human sacrifices as sacred food in the market.

To a visitor from a different culture, the ancient Mayan and Aztec people's human sacrifices are weird and eye-catching.

At the impressive National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropologia) a quick stroll was enough to become aware that there are many pyramids - the major place for rituals and human sacrifices - scattered around Mexico.

Many of the beautiful carved stone exhibits in the museum were once used for sacrificial rituals. For example, the famous Aztec Calendar Stone, or Stone of the Sun, was actually a large sacrificial altar and probably used to stage fights between warriors. Another example is a carved stone jaguar with a cavity on its back, which "functioned as a sacred recipient designed to contain the blood and hearts of captive warriors".

The next morning I found myself walking on the Avenue of the Dead (Avenida de los Muertos) at Teotihuacan, the site of Mexico's biggest ancient city, which had about 200,000 people at its peak. It was likely the capital of Mexico's biggest pre-Hispanic empire.

The stone-paved avenue is the axis of the site, which lies 50 km northeast of Mexico City. About 2 km to the north, it is flanked by the former palaces of Teotihuacan's elite, and other major structures, such as the Pyramid of the Sun. The Pyramid of the Moon stands at the northern end of the road.

The avenue is straight and wide and it is hard to believe that it was built between AD 250 and 600, together with most of the buildings in the ancient city. The later Aztecs believed that the great buildings lining it were vast tombs, built by giants for Teotihuacan's first ruler, hence the name.

But it is a good idea to take the less-trodden path and hike around in the overgrown land around the relics, full of short but stout Yucca trees and different kinds of flowering cactuses. Overshadowed by the Pyramid of the Sun, it is a lovely place, away from the hawkers and other tourists.

Climbing the 248 steps of the world's third largest pyramid - the Pyramid of the Sun - under scorching sun, is not easy, but it's worth it. Here you can see the awesome layout of the entire site.

After the hike and climb, lunch at a restaurant outside the site was tasty and memorable. Teotihuacan soup - chicken soup with pumpkin flowers and mushrooms, and avocado sauce with tortilla, was followed by a main course - beef, pork, chicken, fresh cheese and onions in a heated volcanic stone mortar.

Xochimilco is about 20 km south of downtown Mexico City and is an extended series of canals lined by plant nurseries and houses with lawns, which is a popular recreational destination for locals.

There we had our lunch while floating into a bizarre aquatic traffic jam on a flower-decorated and painted trajinera boat, while mariachi bands entertained, peddlers in small riverboats shuttled around and families enjoyed their lunches.

Listening to a mariachi band singing Guantanamera, with a beer in hand, it is easy to share one of the joys of living in this impressive city.

The author's tour in Mexico was arranged by Turismo Mayorista Premier and Best Day Travel.

The Dengfeng municipal government of Henan province reached an agreement with the Hong Kong-based China Travel Service Group (CTS) create a company to manage all the tourism near the famous Shaolin Temple on Songshan Mountain in Henan. The company will even go public in 2011, according to a report at people.com.cn. There's one catch: they forgot to tell the Shaolin monks themselves.

"The government did not let the Shaolin Temple part know the agreement, because we haven't announced the operation to the public yet," said Cui Shiying, the head of the Dongfeng city party committee's publicity department.

Under the terms of the "Cooperation Framework Agreement" made on October 21, the two sides would jointly invest a total of 100 million yuan ($14.6 million) to set up the "Dengfeng Songshan Shaolin Culture and Travel Company." The company would manage all ticket sales, hotels, and tourism in the area. The agreement is valid for 40 years.

The government's contribution to the agreement will be access to the Shaolin Temple itself, which they have valued at 49 million yuan ($7.17 million). CTS will contribute the remaining 51 million. But it is not at all clear that the Shaolin Temple is the Dongfeng government's to give.

"The Shaolin Temple is national assets, not of Shaolin Temple itself or the local government. The Dengfeng administration shouldn’t make the decision all by itself, but hear more from experts and the public," said Qian Daliang, manager of Intellectual Property and Intangible Assets Management Center of Shaolin Temple.

Ticket sales at the Shaolin Temple account to 150 million yuan ($21.9 million) every year, the report said, and a good portion of that money currently goes to the temple. Under the new agreement, all the money would go to the new Dongfeng Songshan Shaolin Culture and Travel Company.

A look at the good life on the world's most luxurious yachts.

As the morning sky above the Indian Ocean transitions from blazing yellow and orange to hues of blue, pink and purple, some of the charter guests aboard the Douce France, one of the world's largest floating catamarans, venture off in kayaks for shell shopping on a private, bleached-white beach. Others set out on a fishing excursion in a speedy tender.

A big splash signals that one guest has spontaneously decided to jump off the boat for a morning swim. Another couple is content remaining onboard the yacht, napping in cushy chairs while the boat sways gently in waters just offshore from Coco Island in the Seychelles.

Such is life aboard one of the world's most luxurious charter vessels.

Days and nights aboard yachts for charter are unique to each boat, each destination and each crew. And like most yacht charters, the day of disembarkment is always one a guest would prefer not to think about (kiss all those fancy dinners and afternoon cocktails goodbye).

Fortunately, one needn't go all the way to the Seychelles to experience high-seas style. A veritable fleet of luxurious and unique vessels float along the earth's waters, equipped to satisfy every fancy. And each boat--large or small--offers a unique and extravagant sailing experience.

High Seas Standouts

Combing the world for luxury liners is easy; but highlighting the unique and the ultra-luxurious is a matter of looking for that extra, special element of the sailing experience that can't be found in any other place. Our writers, editors and staff connoisseurs of the seas agree that these vessels and marinas encompass every luxury traveler's dreams, from whimsical and fast, to the adventuresome and the ultra posh.

The Caribbean is home to some the biggest catches of the day and, oftentimes, the charter experience isn't so much about the luxury onboard, but the sense of adventure offered. That's what makes a charter aboard the sport-fishing vessel Ambush so special.

The vessel boasts some of the most impressive and technologically advanced gear for a superior deep-sea-fishing jaunt. Guests who fight massive marlin, plump tuna or even an occasional shark by day can opt to cast their evenings in Ambush's comfy, modern cabin--or return to the spaciousness of Ambush's bigger-sister yacht, the 121-foot Olga, for a nap in one of her sterling staterooms; a massage; and then dinner prepared by the chef featuring, of course, fish caught by the guests that day.

Another charter experience that won't soon be forgotten is one aboard the 196-foot Amnesia. The boat has an inviting Jacuzzi pool replete with barstools, as well as a gym. She accommodates 12 guests and sails year-round in the Mediterranean and the Caribbean.

If a bigger liner is more your speed, go for the Penthouse Suite aboard the 936-foot Holland America ship, the Eurodam. The cabin is bigger than most New York City apartments, at 1,100 square feet, and has a 24-hour butler and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the ocean.

Closer to Home

Some guests may only have enough free time for the luxury-liner experience in a single evening, not a full vacation. For them, there's the Cornucopia Majesty, which calls New York its home. The massive, 30,000-square-foot vessel can host up to 1,200 party guests and features an astounding three-story atrium. It's the largest-capacity yacht on the East Coast, making it perfect for dining, dancing and entertaining--or all three.

If a vacation or simple-evening of high seas style isn't enough to satisfy, one of the best options is to make ocean life permanent--and buy into a dockside abode by the sea.

Key West Harbor Yacht Club, a part of the Yacht Clubs of the Americas, is a resort-like community where a day of boating is met with luxurious accommodations on land. There's a concierge service, a pool and clubhouse, all providing a country-club-like ambiance.

Settling into such an atmosphere may not provide quite the same escape one gets on the open ocean, but it's the next best thing. And if you really need that extra sense of luxury and escape, just call for a charter. Chances are, they can sail right up to your doorstep.

The snow-covered Great Wall is glazed by the rays of sunset.
"To Simatai? Again? Isn't it snowing in Beijing?"

That was my mother on the phone from Calcutta.

I told her that the idea, in fact, was to capture the snow on the ramparts of the Great Wall. Simatai happens to be the steepest, highest (about 1,000 m above sea level) and arguably the most picturesque and least-frequented part of the Wall around Beijing. Built in 1368 and re-built in the mid-Ming Dynasty in the late 16th century, it is also one of the most ancient and unspoilt pieces of the great bulwark. Now was the time to see its virginal brilliance, before the snow melted.

"You'd better watch your step," she said. "The wall's rather ancient, isn't it? Never know when a chunk might loosen and fall off."

My mother can be funny sometimes. But at 6:30 pm, walking down the never-ending snow-caked steps in pitch darkness, as a strong wind threatened to scoop me off the wall and hurl me down the precipitous gorge - right into what seemed at that hour to be the other side of civilization - I thought of my mother.

At sub-zero temperature my hands hung limp, ready to be preserved cryogenically for the benefit of humanity. A thin dribble of phlegm ran non-stop down my nostrils, dripping into the scarf wound twice around my neck and mouth. My legs, under double layers of trousers, were shivering and wobbly. The steps - there must have been thousands of them - were uneven and treacherous, broken and jagged in parts, sometimes eroded to nothingness. The walls on either side, just beneath the parapet, opened up viciously every 2 m or so. They had gaping holes the size of a Cyclop's mouth.

For the first time in my life I wondered if I should start calling out to some of the 330 million gods in the Hindu pantheon. If I slipped and fell on what was now solid blocks of ice, glittering and sparkling under a clear, starlit sky, and broke something and ended up spending the night here, I would surely freeze to death.

But all this happened after a rust - and-crimson sun had gone down behind the dark ridges covered with coniferous trees, toward the west, beyond the lake into which hot and cold springs pour in all the year round, its waters never freezing. My companions, armed with a sophisticated camera, tripod and several combinations of lenses, parked themselves at three of the 15 watchtowers on the east wing of Simatai, keen not to lose a moment of the sun's chiaroscuro effect on the 60 million cubic meters of stone and brick.

I decided to walk up as far as I could, primarily to prevent myself from getting mummified. I passed through the compact, symmetrical arches of the watchtowers, moving eastwards. At each tower I would stop to catch my breath behind the thick walls. I would look out of the arched windows, now glazed by the rays of the setting sun, to watch the molten gold coating the snow-covered slopes beneath like cheese spread.

Once or twice I caught myself leaning too heavily on the windowsill and stepped back with a start. The wall had crumbled in places, enlarging the windows or doing away with them altogether. When I reached the Fairy Maiden Tower, the place where a sign read "no couching", I decided I would rest there for a while. The very desolate nature of this crumbling tower, pushed to the eastern fringe of the hills, was inviting.

Sitting in its doorway, with the expansive landscape of hills, trees, lake and the rise and fall of the Wall, like a melody, spreading out in front of me was like having a seat in the dress circle, watching the sun bowing out for the day, dressed in full regalia.

The paved road of the wall seemed to end here. But another one, so narrow that it was almost invisible in parts, which rose from a blocked wall of the tower, shot off toward the peak, leading to the eponymously called Watching Beijing Tower. My friend Gao Yansong scrambled up the broken footpath to catch a view of Beijing by sunset and record it on his camera, but I chose to stay put with the fairies, ears pressed against the wall, listening for sounds of music and laughter.

Soon the sun would go down behind the hills, touching everything on its way - the bare trees growing on the slopes, the icy serpentine stretches of the Wall running like a series of wide parabolic curves in sync with the rise and fall of the ridges, the Heavenly Ladder, almost a 90-degree gradient, rising up the craggy knoll, resembling a crooked cottage with a chimney.

After dark, when the visitors have all gone home, Simatai stands alone, listening to the sound of springs - one hot and the other cold - pouring into a lake that never freezes.

A small state on India's Western coast, Goa boasts of quaint Portuguese colonial charm, sun-kissed beaches and great seafood.

Goa is also favorite haunt for domestic and international travelers, and Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a visit to this beach town.

FRIDAY

7 p.m. - Start off your holiday in Goa the way you are meant to -- sipping a beer or cocktail, and watching the sun go down at Baga beach, one of the many beaches that dot the coastline. If you are the more adventurous sort, indulge in some water sports or para-gliding, popular activities on this particular stretch.

9 p.m. - Dine at Britto's, one of the many shacks located right on Baga beach. Don't be fooled, however, by the modest surrounds: Britto's is not just a shack, it is more of a local institution. Try the pepper prawns and their trademark baked crabs and finish with their fabulous home-made desserts, especially bebinca, a traditional Goan sweet made of jaggery and coconut milk.

11 p.m. - Burn off those calories with a walk up to Tito's, one of Goa's most well-known -- and packed -- night clubs. Frequented by tourists and locals alike, the energy and buzz around this place more than make up for the claustrophobia you might experience amid the hordes that turn up every night. If you prefer something slightly more crowded, head over to the Butter Lounge, in nearby Candolim. It may not have as many people, but the music is equally good for dancing the night away.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. - The best, and cheapest, way to get around in Goa is to hire a motorbike. You can get them in most places, even in the smaller towns. Make sure you have a valid license, put on lots of sunscreen and head out toward Old Goa, or Goa Velha as it is locally known. Visit St Paul's Cathedral, and the Basilica of Bon Jesus on the other side of the road. The 16th century basilica, built by the Portuguese, who ruled Goa until as recently as 1961, houses the body of Goa's patron saint St Francis Xavier. The body has been preserved for more than four centuries and devotees from all over the world flock there to pay their respects. This is one of the best places to get a sense of the Portuguese influence that pervades most aspects of Goan life.

12 p.m. - Take the opportunity and explore the countryside a little more. Goa's beaches are its most well-known feature, but there is more to the place. Green fields dotted with coconut palms, quaint houses with red-tiled roofs, and winding roads make for a great ride. Stop at a local bakery and sample some "pao," traditional Goan bread, and buy some locally made pottery.

2 p.m. - Head back toward Panaji, but not before you make a detour at Star Bar and Restaurant. Yes, it isn't the most imaginatively named place, and nor does it have any ambience to speak of, but this place can boast of the best fresh shrimp in all of Goa. Order a full Goan meal and wash it down with the feni local liquor as you watch boats sail along the river.

4 p.m. - Panaji, Goa's capital, is a charming town set on the banks of the river Mandovi and well worth exploring. Visit the Panjim Church, an imposing structure that looks down on the city, and old quarter of Fointanhas for some traditional Portuguese architecture.

7 p.m. - Goa is also home to off-shore casinos, so if you fancy your luck, try your hand at the slots.

9 p.m. - Have dinner at Fiesta, another North Goa institution, which serves up Mediterranean and continental fare. If that's not your style, try The Republic of Noodles at Candolim. Located near the Taj Palace hotel, this restaurant boasts of great interiors and delicious South East Asian cuisine.

11 p.m. - If you still have any energy, rev up the motorbike and make your way to the Saturday Night Bazaar at Arpora. A huge, chaotic, throbbing market, this place comes to life past midnight. Expect to find everything from trinkets to clothes to watches and even luggage. There are also food and beer stalls. Don't forget to bargain hard.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. - Start off your Sunday with a traditional Goan breakfast of pao-bhaji, bread and vegetables in gravy, at one of the many eateries that dot the Baga-Candolim stretch. Get on the motorbike and head toward South Goa, which has some of the best beaches on India's Western Coast.

11 a.m. - Palolem beach is one of Goa's most pristine beaches and is located at the southern tip of the state. Soak in the sun, do some swimming, read a book and just relax - that's what most people come to Goa to do.

2 p.m. - If you can rouse yourself from your slumber, treat yourself with a Sunday buffet lunch at the Taj Exotica or the Park Hyatt, both in South Goa. If you prefer to do some celebrity spotting instead, ask for directions to Martin's Corner, a small shack located in the village of Betalbatim. Cricketer Sachin Tendulkar and actor Shah Rukh Khan are regulars to this family-run restaurant.

4 p.m. - If Goan food has intrigued your palate, perhaps a visit to a spice farm (www.sahakarifarms.com) might be appropriate. Spices play a vital role in Goan and Indian cuisine and an insight into what it takes to cultivate these spices is a good start toward understanding the local food.

8 p.m. - End your holiday with some drinks and people watching at the Taj Aguada Resort, one of Goa's best luxury hotels. Watch the sunset, breathe in the ocean air and start planning your trip back.